The Electric Dreamscape of 59 Rivoli

Welcome to 59 Rivoli, Paris’ most dynamic artist community and a hub of creative expression. We went here last weekend for our weekly parents’ night out; it was incredible, and not just because there were no children with us. 59 Rivoli was originally an artist squat, founded in 1999 when a group of local artists…

At Huitrerie Regis, the World is Your Oyster

Down a tiny side street one block off the bustling Boulevard Saint-Germain – so small even we, who were looking for it, almost missed it – sits the illustrious Huitrerie Regis, the foremost oyster bar in Paris. The storefront is narrow, taking up a postage stamp-sized space of sidewalk. There’s a glowing sign and a tell-tale…

The Would-be Pickpocket

Today was unseasonably warm for Paris, with blue skies and even a little sunshine. With Connor safely installed in school and Avery napping, Dave and I took advantage of our quiet morning to stroll around the Eiffel Tower, the Champs de Mars, and a few of Paris’ prettiest museums. We ended our morning walk, as…

Literary Paris: A Visit to Maison de Balzac

With two small children taking naps at three different times during the day, it’s been a little more challenging than we thought to explore Paris. I’ve started sneaking out with Avery in the afternoons, taking short field trips in the quiet, after-lunch hour. We recently visited Maison de Balzac, the former home of French author…

Paris, Week One: Survival Mode

Our first week in Paris has come to an end, and what a week it’s been. There’s a learning curve to any new city, and Paris is no different. We are trying to live here, not just vacation here, which means finding supermarkets and hardware stores, buying dish towels and removable coat hooks. We purchased…

Maison des Tantrums

We’ve spent a fair amount of time over the last few days thinking about food. Our vacation rental has a kitchen – an absolute necessity for long term travel with children, but we are still learning where the grocery stores are, and when the markets are open, and where the best and most cost-effective place…

From Paris, avec Amour

We finally did it, guys. We moved to Paris. I know that we’ve been talking about this forever. Friends and family are probably getting a little tired of hearing about it. But this experience is something my partner-in-crime and I have been day-dreaming of for years, back when there were only two of us, and…

Watchtowers and War at Devin Castle

Slovakia’s historic Devin Castle has long captured the imagination. It’s crumbling walls and strategic perch overlooking the Danube inspired generations of poets and artists. Though its recent history is fascinating – destroyed by Napoleon’s retreating forces in 1809, purchased for next to nothing by the Czechoslovakian government in 1939, and slowly restored during the second…

How to Lose Weight on Vacation

I’ve never been able to follow the traditional weight-loss-on-the-road advice, and honestly, who would want to? Eat a healthy breakfast. Don’t snack. Walk more. Take the stairs. Self-cater. No thank you. Trying all the food and wine and beer and coffee is one of the best parts of being on vacation. No consequences. No rules. Just carbs. The…

A Family Photo Shoot on Mount Kazbek

During our most recent vacation, in which we visited Georgia and explored the lovely Caucasus Mountains, we decided to hire a photographer to take family photos. I would not be exaggerating if I told you that the days, nay weeks, leading up to our trip were entirely consumed by planning for the photo shoot. Dinners…

Life and Death at Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath Temple is a lesson in superlatives. It’s the oldest Hindu temple in Nepal. It’s also the largest temple complex in the country, spanning both sides of the Bagmati River, the holiest site in Nepal, and one of the most sacred temples of the Hindu faith in the world.